November 22, 2014

Le Noveau ést arrivé


This is the slogan for Beaujolais Nouveau Day, the third Thursday in November when wine lovers in France and around the world race to take part in the traditional tasting of the year's Beaujolais Nouveau. Far from France and Beaujolais, Ubifrance celebrated the day by offering a Beaujolais taste at Alliance Française, on Kildare St. There was Patrick Thevenet, presenting wines from AOC Chénas and Moulin à Vent - délicieux!

Beaujolais is a French AOC wine usually made from the Gamay grape. Whites are made mostly from Chardonnay grapes though Aligoté is also permitted. Beaujolais tends to be a very light-bodied red wine, with relatively high amounts of acidity.

The wine takes its name from the historical Province of Beaujolais, located north of Lyon, and covers parts of the north of the Rhône, in the Rhône-Alpes region, and southern areas of the Saône-et-Loire in Burgundy. The region is known internationally for its long tradition of winemaking, for the use of carbonic maceration.

But there are more than Le Noveau in Beaujolais. Some wines are made to be released later, and the best ones come from areas named Crus, classified as stand-alone appellations. They are: Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié and St. Amour. While Le Nouveau is made in a drink-now style, Les Crus are made more traditionally, and tend to be released a year or two later.

November 20, 2014

Piedmont Beyond Nebbiolo

There are much more in Piemont than the usual Barolos, Barbarescos and Barberas!


Piedmont, or Piemonte in Italian, is Italy's most distinguished viticultural province. The region combines Alpine and Mediterranean zones, and houses more DOCGs (Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita) than any other Italian wine region, and it's famous for its cellar-worthy red wines, nuturing Nebbiolo in the communes of Barolo and Barbaresco.

Barolo and Barbaresco can only be made in a few villages in the region of Piedmont, but Nebbiolo is grown all over the region, not just in the villages that use it to create the high end wines. One of the most beautiful aspects of Nebbiolo is its scent — the wine actually smells of roses. In addition to this notable scent, the wine has a great amount of acidity, mouth-drying tannins and earthy flavors.

While Barolo and Barbaresco are the stars, the number one grape planted in Piedmont is Barbera, and its most famous expressions come from the southeast neighboring communes of Asti and Alba. Barbera is crowd-pleasing with typically juicy black and red berry fruit, high acid, medium alcohol and soft tannins. The second most planted variety is Dolcetto, which generally offers more delicate fruit and lighter body, often benefiting from a light chill before serving.

You might look for Dolcetto di Dogliani - also labelled simply Dogliani - for a more serious wine. Recently elevated to DOCG status, these wines are low-yielding, latepicked, super-selected, concentrated, (almost always) barrel-aged with a weight and structure foreign to other Dolcettos. Its dry austerity can often be mouth puckering, then you'll need to add cellar time them. The result is a satisfying, rich, chunky, vigorous wine that opens a new and unsuspected window on the Langhe.

Other important, yet lesser known red varieties include: Grignolino (a red grape with intense flavors, brisk acidity and notable tannin and light body), Ruché (a rare aromatic red grape which offers intense aromas and flavours of nutmeg, cinnamon, lavender, peony and dark red cherries), Pelaverga (produces bright and perfumed wines, with accents of roses and violets, medium bodied and very fresh), Vespolina (bright with hints of sour red berries, violet and white pepper) and Freisa (perfumed, tannic and acidic - perfect for hearted dishes as stews and saussages)

White wines are slightly less famous, but equally distinct, food friendly, and versatile. Grapes like Arneis (complex with a soft bouquet of fresh flowers, ripe fruit and hazelnut), Cortese (moderate acidity and light, crisp flavors, medium bodied with notes of limes and greengage), Erbaluce (dry with noticeable acidity and apple aromas and flavors) and Moscato (elegant floral aromas and notes of peach, apricot and fresh grape juice) will give you a true taste of Piedmont whites.

November 08, 2014

Finca Labarca Reserva 2006, DOCa Rioja

Finca Labarca Reserva 2006, DOCa Rioja
Appearance: Clear medium garnet.

Nose: Clean, pronounced aromas of red baked fruits, spices (nutmeg, cloves), vanilla, cream, butter and oak.

Palate: Dry, medium acidity, medium tannins, medium alcohol, full body, pronounced flavours of cooked fruits and sweet spices. Long finish.

Conclusion: A classic Rioja Reserva: full body, creamy and buttery, and a subtle oak after taste. Supervalu special for €12 (from €15,99, they say).

Sartori Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2012

Sartori Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2012
Appearance: Clear medium ruby.

Nose: Clean, medium pronounced aromas of cooked fruits, jamminess.

Palate: Dry, medium+ acidity, -medium tannins, medium+ alcohol, medium body, medium intensity, flavours of cooked fruits and spices. Medium+ finish.

Conclusion: For me Ripasso wines are made to please, you can't go wrong with it. This is no exception: well balanced and very structured, is a fantastic wine for many occasions, ready to drink. For the "locals", Supervalue offers it for 12€ this week, reduced from 19.99€, they say.

La Châsse, Blason D'Or 2012, AOP Costières de Nîmes

La Châsse Blason D'Or 2012
AOP Costières de Nîmes
Appearance: Clear pale ruby.

Nose: Clean and youthful, with pronounced aromas of fresh red fruits (red cherry, strawberry) and a sweet spice hint (liquorice).

Palate: Dry wine with low acidity and low to medium tannins. Medium alcohol sensation (despite its average 13%), medium to light body, with flavours of red fruits aromas found on the nose, plus subtle spices and herbal notes. Medium finish.

Conclusion: Soft tannins and medium alcohol with lots of fruit aromas make this wine an easy drinking one, ready to drink. For those in Ireland, Supervalu is offering this wine for 9€ (reduced from 18€, they say).